If you desire to do the task right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and really see what's going on. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
It is 2 different jobs. You get to deal with powder fouling. Second, you have to eliminate copper fouling. Only then are you done. There are all sorts of quality gun-cleaning products out there. Here is a list of what I use. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods. They are available in.
Eliminate the brush, hose it down once again, and put it aside to dry. Clean off the cleaning rod with a paper towel. Take your spot rod, and put 3 solvent spots up the bore. The last one must come out nearly white. When it does, follow with a dry spot.
(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. If you see no copper, or just a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done.
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If you do not have a borescope, run a solvent restore the bore and let it sit, muzzle slightly down, for a number of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out clean, you're done, but if it has green or blue spots, back to the J-B.
Now, some general notes. Some barrels copper-foul much worse than others. As a rule, the more you invest on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will foul. But every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do burglary procedures work? I doubt it. I've had a couple of cases where a barrel unexpectedly started to group as I reached completion of the process, however I have actually had even more break-ins that made no distinction at all.
They work, in some cases, but if you forget and leave the stuff in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but excellent, and given that I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I hesitate to take the possibility. They're hell on stock surfaces. With a bolt-action, go easy on the Break-Free.
Take a cue from the military, whose lives depend on their guns going bang. They desire them immaculate. And immaculate is a great way to go.
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The actions to correctly clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field removing or complete disassembly. Due to the range of rifles, total disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this short article.
, and remove any loose particles that might be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber.
One common misconception is that more is much better when it comes to lubrication of your firearm.
The procedure is simple. Soak a couple spots in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Remember, keep your barrel clamped or pointed down to avoid any solvent collecting near the actionsee Step 1.) Allow it to sit, and bear in mind that removing copper can take a while.
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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Just let it sit again, and repeat. If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Simply let it sit again and repeat. Bill Buckley Keep In Mind: There's a great deal of talk about how these copper solvents can damage your bore.
What you don't desire is to let any ammonia solvent dry in there. So as soon as you're satisfied that the copper is gone, run a number of dry spots down the bore, followed by a couple of patches that have actually been wet with a routine cleansing solvent. Run 3 or 4 dry patches down the bore to eliminate any staying solvent.